Hi Sleeper
We bought our place 7 years ago which we use as a holiday bolthole and love it and the area.  Our Catalan neighbours are very friendly even though we communicate is very broken Spanish.  We bought totally in white money and as everybody else says just get good legal advise.  We do have electricity and have access to a well, personally I would only buy a place with electricity and water especially if you wish to use it as a holiday home as you don't want to turn up and try to sort out power and water as soon as you get there.  If the place you were first interested in doesn't have a cedula just keep looking and looking, you will know when it is right, good luck and ENJOY it!!
Debbie